Black, brown, and mixed skin tones represent over 50% of the world population, according to the World Health Organization (WHO). Yet, they remain underrepresented in dermatological studies and mainstream cosmetic ranges.
These skin types reflect incredible diversity: from Mediterranean phototype IV to sub-Saharan phototype VI, each has specific needs. Understanding this diversity is key to offering effective and appropriate care worldwide.
From Africa to Asia: a mosaic of phototypes
Phototype is a classification system measuring how skin reacts to UV rays. Phototype IV always tans and rarely burns, while type V tans deeply, and type VI never burns.
Identifying your phototype is essential for choosing the right anti-spot treatment: phototype VI needs gentle but powerful actives, while phototype IV may tolerate mild exfoliants.
All pigmented skin requires sun protection, as UV rays worsen pigmentation—even if the risk of sunburn is low.
Today, specific clinical tests exist for each phototype, ensuring visible results without risk of depigmentation.
- Sub-Saharan Africa (phototype VI): skin naturally protected from UV but prone to hyperpigmentation and hypertrophic scars (source: Callender et al., 2022).
- North Africa & Middle East (phototype IV–V): olive-toned skin, often combination to oily, prone to adult acne and melasma.
- India and South Asia (phototype V): thicker skin, subject to melasma and pigment disorders triggered by hormones or heat.
- Latin America & the Caribbean (phototype IV–V): mixed skin types, combining acne, spots, and skin sensitivity.
The Fitzpatrick scale remains the standard: phototype IV (light olive skin) to VI (very dark skin). Knowing your phototype helps you better target skincare, especially for spots and sun protection.
Common challenges of pigmented skin
- A more fragile skin barrier than expected (prone to dehydration)
- Heightened inflammatory reactivity, leading to dark spots or pigmented scars
- A tendency toward post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) from aggression (breakouts, injuries, friction)
A study published in The British Journal of Dermatology (2021) highlights that “darker skin shows unique susceptibility to pigmentation disorders, even without visible trauma.”
Why universal skincare is no longer enough
For a long time, cosmetics were developed for lighter skin (phototypes I–III), and then simply "adapted" to others. The result:
- Formulas often too harsh for darker skin (risk of dark spots)
- Sun protection neglected despite real need
- Traditional anti-spot actives often irritating or depigmenting
Today, a new approach is emerging: skincare designed from the start for pigmentation-specific needs and tested on phototypes IV to VI.
These new formulas rely on gentle yet effective actives: tranexamic acid, niacinamide, stabilized vitamin C derivatives… They target pigmentation without irritation or bleaching.
Our tips to enhance every pigmented skin
- Identify your phototype to choose targeted treatments
- Choose products tested on pigmented skin, validated on phototypes IV–VI
- Protect your skin from UV, even if it rarely burns
- Prefer gentle anti-spot actives: niacinamide, azelaic acid, oil-soluble vitamin C
Take your online skin diagnosis
In summary
- Black, brown, and mixed skin types represent a rich and diverse global spectrum
- Despite their differences, they share key needs: melanin-respecting care, spot prevention, and barrier strengthening
Subtle note: Laboratoire IN’OYA is committed to formulating scientific skincare solutions tailored to every pigmented phototype, celebrating this global diversity.
Sources
- Callender VD, Taylor SC. Pigmentary disorders in skin of color. Dermatol Clin. 2022.
- The British Journal of Dermatology. Global variations in skin pigmentation and their implications. 2021.
- Kundu RV. Advances in treating pigmentation in skin of color. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2020.