Can skincare products designed for black skin be used on white skin? And vice versa?
With the rise of so-called "ethnic" cosmetics, a common question arises: Can products formulated for black skin be used on white skin? Or are "universal" products sufficient for pigmented skin?
Behind this question lies a persistent myth: that cosmetics are interchangeable, regardless of phototype, skin structure, or biological responses. However, black, brown, and white skin do not react the same way to skincare products.
Understanding the biological specifics of pigmented skin helps in making better skincare choices.
Black and White Skin: Major Biological Differences
Melanin, responsible for skin color, is not produced in equal amounts across phototypes. Black skin (phototypes V-VI) has a high density of eumelanin, a dark pigment that protects against the sun but also makes it more prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH).
According to a study by the American Academy of Dermatology, "black skin exhibits higher melanocyte activity and a prolonged inflammatory skin response" (AAD, 2017).
- The stratum corneum is more compact in black skin.
- Sweat glands are larger.
- Black skin has a more acidic pH, influencing how it absorbs or tolerates certain cosmetic ingredients.
Using Black Skin Products on White Skin: Is It Risky?
In theory: A product designed for black skin can be used on white skin if the active ingredients are not specific to pigmentary or seborrheic imbalances.
In practice: The formulation of a product for black skin considers particular reactivity to inflammation, a tendency toward hyperpigmentation, and specific hydration needs.
Example: An anti-dark spot serum for darker skin often works more slowly, with gentle actives like azelaic acid or niacinamide, to avoid irritation. Fair skin, being thinner and more reactive, may poorly tolerate high concentrations or require different actives like tranexamic acid or retinol.
And Conversely: Using "Classic" Products on Black Skin?
This is where the danger lies. Many so-called "generic" or "all skin types" products are not tested on darker phototypes. The result:
- Excessive stripping
- Poor tolerance to irritating actives (strong AHAs, retinoids)
- No effect on deep or recurring dark spots
A study published in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology confirms that "the majority of clinical trials in dermocosmetics do not consider tolerance on dark skin, exposing to a risk of PIH" (Taylor, 2018).
It's better to choose formulations designed for pigmentary specifics.
Why Brands Specialized for Black Skin Are Beneficial for All
Some formulations designed for pigmented skin include:
- Gentle yet effective actives
- Formulations without irritating agents (no hydroquinone, no harsh alcohol)
- A preventive approach against dark spots instead of just camouflaging them
Conclusion: Sensitive white skin may sometimes better tolerate a product designed for black skin than a classic product, provided overly rich or sebum-regulating products are avoided.
What to Always Check Before Buying a Skincare Product
- The INCI list: identify actives suited to your actual needs (anti-dark spots, mattifying, repairing...)
- The mention of phototype or testing on pigmented skin
- The texture: dry skin = rich care / combination skin = light emulsion
- The target of the product: post-acne spots, melasma, scars? Each issue requires a different approach.
The IN’OYA website offers a free diagnosis to guide the right choices based on skin type, phototype, and concerns.
In Summary
- Skincare products for black skin are not "dangerous" for white skin but may not be suitable.
- It's better to choose a product based on your concern (dark spots, shine, sensitivity) and phototype.
- Darker skin requires products clinically tested on their skin type.
- Solutions like those offered by the IN’OYA Laboratory, designed with scientific rigor, meet these specific needs without excluding other phototypes.
Sources
- Taylor SC. “Ethnic skin and the role of testing in product development.” J Drugs Dermatol, 2018.
- American Academy of Dermatology (AAD). “Skin of Color Considerations.” 2017.
- Callender VD. “Pigmentary Disorders in Darker Skin.” J Invest Dermatol, 2021.