Modern dermocosmetics are often told through a European lens, but skincare for Black, brown, and mixed skin has far older, richer, and largely unrecognized roots.
From West Africa to India, and through the Caribbean, these populations developed their own methods to protect the skin from climate, environmental stressors, and skin diseases. Yet this heritage has long been erased from textbooks.
A 2020 study published in the International Journal of Dermatology states that “traditional expertise in caring for pigmented skin has been marginalized in the development of Western dermatology.”
Ancestral skincare: an underestimated heritage
Traditional skincare for darker skin tones has always served multiple functions: soothing inflammation, strengthening the skin barrier, and preventing excess pigmentation.
In Mali, shea butter was applied daily to protect the skin from sun and harsh weather. In Ancient Egypt, plant oils like moringa oil were used to prevent spots. In India, Ayurvedic medicine recommended turmeric and sandalwood masks to balance skin tone.
Today, modern research confirms the efficacy of some of these natural ingredients, now stabilized and clinically tested in advanced formulations. This bridge between heritage and innovation is finally restoring value to Black, brown, and mixed skin.
According to Dr. Taylor, a pioneer in ethnic dermatology: “Traditional practices offer scientifically relevant solutions for pigmented skin, which science is now rediscovering.” (Source: Taylor SC, Dermatology Clinics, 2021)
The erasure of darker skin in Western dermocosmetics
Until the 2000s, most dermocosmetic formulas were tested on light skin (phototypes I to III), ignoring the biological specificities of darker skin tones.
The result:
- Some lightening products caused severe side effects in Africa and the Caribbean.
- Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) wasn’t recognized as a major condition.
- Black skin was often subjected to harsh, unsuitable treatments.
The first depigmenting creams, based on hydroquinone or corticosteroids, produced quick lightening effects, but long-term they led to severe pigment disorders (exogenous ochronosis, skin atrophy). Today, regulations have tightened, yet misuse still occurs in some regions.
Towards inclusive and science-based dermocosmetics
Over the past decade, a shift has occurred: skincare is now being formulated specifically for pigmented skin.
- Clinical trials finally include volunteers with phototypes IV to VI.
- Brands are creating anti-spot formulas that respect melanin instead of attacking it.
- Sun protection—once overlooked in darker skin—is now a growing trend.
New active ingredients are emerging: gentle yet effective, like tranexamic acid, niacinamide, or liposoluble vitamin C derivatives. They target excess pigmentation without whitening effects.
Our advice for pigmented skin today
- Avoid harsh lightening agents (hydroquinone, corticosteroids without prescription)
- Choose skincare routines adapted to your skin’s physiology
- Protect your skin daily with SPF—even on darker skin
Take your online skin diagnosis
In summary
The forgotten history of pigmented skincare is now being rewritten.
- What was once traditional heritage is becoming modern science.
- Black, brown, and mixed skin deserves specific, respectful, and effective care.
Subtle note: Laboratoire IN’OYA is part of this movement, offering innovative solutions designed to enhance pigmented skin without compromise.
Sources
- Taylor SC. Advances in ethnic dermatology. Dermatol Clin. 2021.
- Callender VD, Taylor SC. Skin of color in clinical practice. Int J Dermatol. 2020.
- Kundu RV. Dermatologic conditions in skin of color: challenges and solutions. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2019.