The cosmetics industry is full of promises: radiance, even skin tone, anti-spot, anti-blemish... But for pigmented skin, not all formulas are created equal. Some ingredients can do more harm than good: irritation, skin imbalance, or rebound pigmentation. It's better to know how to spot them—and, more importantly, to understand why.
A biological specificity: melanin reactivity
Black, brown, and mixed skin has a high concentration of melanin, a naturally protective pigment... but also highly reactive. At the slightest aggression (inflammation, friction, irritation), a signal is sent to melanogenesis: this leads to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
As a result, a poorly chosen ingredient can cause spots where we were trying to fade them.
1. Unregulated or unstable depigmenting agents
Some so-called “brightening” agents are still present in products sold online or in ranges poorly suited to pigmented skin. The result: aggressive and poorly controlled action.
- Free hydroquinone: banned in Europe, causes uneven spots, ochronosis, irritation.
- Misused corticosteroids: found in some low-cost whitening creams.
- Unstable kojic acid, high-dose arbutin: often poorly tolerated.
Prefer: unifying actives tested on pigmented skin, stable and well tolerated.
2. Abrasive exfoliants or those unsuitable for dark phototypes
Aggressive mechanical scrubs or overly strong acids can cause invisible inflammation that leads to dark spots.
- Micro skin lesions
- Silent inflammation
- Secondary hyperpigmentation
Prefer: gentle enzymatic exfoliants or those with lactic acid and soothing botanical extracts.
3. Denatured alcohol and harsh astringents
Though they give a refreshing feeling, they disrupt the skin barrier.
- Deep dehydration
- Rebound effect (excess sebum production)
- Secondary inflammatory spots
Prefer: alcohol-free, gentle, and rebalancing formulas.
4. Allergenic fragrances and poorly controlled essential oils
Some natural components may be poorly tolerated by skin with high inflammatory reactivity.
- Limonene, linalool, citral…
- Photosensitizing essential oils (citrus, lavender, tea tree)
Prefer: minimally scented products, free of major allergens.
5. “Long” but inactive formulas
Lengthy INCI lists don’t guarantee efficacy, especially if they’re filled with unnecessary texture agents.
- Occlusive silicones
- Mineral oils
- Few or no active ingredients in the first five ingredients
Prefer: formulas with key actives at the top of the list, designed from the start for pigmented skin.
Summary
| Goal | Ingredients to Favor | Ingredients to Avoid |
|---|---|---|
| Anti-spot | Niacinamide, Butcher’s Broom, stabilized azelaic acid | Hydroquinone, corticosteroids, unstable kojic acid |
| Exfoliation | Lactic acid, plant-based enzymes | Abrasive grains, brushes, strong unbuffered AHAs |
| Regulation | Zinc PCA, purifying plant extracts, probiotics | Denatured alcohol, camphor, menthol |
| Soothing | Plant-based glycerin, aloe vera, white hibiscus | Harsh essential oils, allergenic fragrances |
Conclusion: aiming for safe effectiveness
Melanin-rich skin has specific needs. The slightest inflammation or irritation can lead to a dark spot. It’s not about bleaching or stripping, but soothing, correcting, and protecting.
A good habit: choose products formulated from the beginning for Black, brown, and mixed skin, dermatologically tested, free from risky actives, and rich in targeted, well-tolerated molecules.
Sources
- Mahé A, Ly F, Aymard G, Dangou JM. Skin diseases associated with the cosmetic use of bleaching products in women from Dakar, Senegal. Br J Dermatol. 2020.
- Olumide Y, et al. Complications of chronic use of skin lightening cosmetics. Int J Dermatol. 2008.
- IN’OYA Laboratoire – Internal Clinical Studies 2022–2024.