Effective Methods to Treat Acne-Related Pigmentation Spots

In Black, brown, and mixed skin, acne rarely leaves the skin untouched. Even after pimples fade, dark spots remain. This is post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), which affects up to 65% of pigmented skin according to a study from the American Academy of Dermatology. Fortunately, there are effective and respectful solutions to fade these marks without harming the skin.

Pigmentation spot or post-acne scar?

A post-acne spot is a flat brown or dark discoloration caused by inflammation. It should not be confused with a scar, which can be indented (atrophic) or raised (keloid). Treatments differ and must be personalized.

Why do darker skin tones develop more post-acne spots?

Pigmented skin contains more melanocytes—the cells that produce melanin. When a pimple appears, it triggers micro-inflammation. This inflammation overstimulates melanocytes, leading to increased melanin production. That’s how dark marks form.

The issue is not just the pimple, but also bad habits: picking, harsh scrubs, lack of sun protection, stripping products...

Poorly formulated skincare can worsen inflammation and lead to more pigmentation. Avoid abrasive treatments, over-concentrated acids, and unregulated bleaching agents.

A targeted 3-step routine

• Gentle cleansing: A mild, sulfate-free cleanser with physiological pH purifies without stripping the skin. This helps avoid sebum rebound and micro-irritations that trigger melanin.
• Treating blemishes & dark spots: It’s crucial to act on both pimples and marks. Actives like niacinamide, azelaic acid, or kojic acid are recommended for their anti-inflammatory and gentle brightening effects.
• Protecting the skin: Without sun protection, progress is compromised. A non-whitening SPF 50 sunscreen is essential—even in winter. UV rays intensify the depth and duration of dark spots.

IN’OYA routines to treat post-acne spots

IN’OYA offers In & Out protocols that combine topical anti-spot care, anti-blemish treatment, and dietary supplements for a global skin approach. These formulas are tested on dark skin and contain no hydroquinone or sensitizing agents.

Key active ingredients

• Azelaic acid: anti-inflammatory, brightening, mild keratolytic.
• Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): reduces spots, regulates sebum, improves skin barrier.
• Kojic acid: tyrosinase inhibitor, targets melanin.
• Vitamin C: antioxidant, boosts radiance and corrects pigmentation irregularities.
• Gentle retinoids: accelerate cell turnover and fade discoloration.

The goal is not to erase melanin but to rebalance its distribution in the skin for an even complexion. The right products regulate, not strip.

What about in-office treatments?

Some consider peels or laser treatments. On pigmented skin, these must be approached with caution and only with professionals experienced in treating dark skin tones.

"Superficial peels using azelaic or mandelic acid are better tolerated than glycolic-based ones in Black skin" (J Am Acad Dermatol, 2021)

Even gentle peels require a strict post-treatment routine including:

• reinforced sun protection,
• soothing moisturizers,
• anti-spot serums to maintain results.

Dermocosmetic follow-up is essential to avoid pigmentation rebound, which is common after aesthetic procedures.

In summary

• Pigmented skin marks more easily, but can recover well with a gentle, consistent, and targeted approach.
• The key is to treat inflammation, pimples, and pigmentation all at once.
• Sun protection is the best ally to prevent long-lasting dark spots.

Laboratoire IN’OYA has developed patented dermocosmetic solutions formulated specifically to address acne + pigmentation in Black, brown, and mixed skin tones.

Sources

• Callender VD. “Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation in skin of color.” J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2019.
• Draelos ZD. “Combining treatments for acne and pigmentation.” Dermatol Pract Concept. 2020.
• AAD 2022 Guidelines. “Pigmentation disorders in skin of color.”