Acne is a universal concern, but its manifestations and scars can be much more pronounced in Black, brown, and mixed skin tones. Understanding the different types of acne is essential to avoid treatment mistakes... and most importantly, to prevent the infamous post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) that affects 65% of pigmented skin, according to a study published in the Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology (2018).
Black, brown, and mixed skin types are characterized by a high concentration of melanin (especially eumelanin), which makes them more resistant to premature aging, but also more prone to hyperpigmentation. The slightest trauma (pimple, friction, inflammation) can trigger excess melanin production. Furthermore, these skin types often have a more fragile skin barrier than assumed, with a tendency toward underlying dehydration, leading to imbalances. This is why care must be gentle + targeted, never harsh.
Why is acne different on darker skin?
Darker skin produces more sebum naturally and has a higher tendency toward inflammation. The result? Every pimple is more likely to leave a dark mark called post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH).
"Inflammation is deeper and more persistent in darker skin, which explains the increased risk of pigmented scars." — Dr. Alexis, Skin of Color Update, 2022
The 3 common types of acne in pigmented skin
- Inflammatory acne: Red, painful papules. On darker skin, they almost always leave a dark mark after healing.
✔️ Tip: absolutely avoid picking, which worsens inflammation. - Hormonal acne: Mainly affects adult women, focused on the jawline and chin. Hormonal imbalances trigger chronic flare-ups.
✔️ Indicator: breakouts before periods or in cases of PCOS. - Post-acne acne or PIH: Even when pimples disappear, the dark spots remain... sometimes for months. It’s the #1 issue in medium to dark skin tones.
It’s essential to distinguish between a pigmentation spot and a post-acne scar. A pigmentation spot (PIH) is flat, with no texture, and ranges from light to dark brown. It’s due to a melanin deposit from past inflammation. A scar may be indented (atrophic) or raised (hypertrophic/keloid), indicating deeper dermal damage. Treatments differ: spots respond to gentle depigmenting agents and mild exfoliants, while scars may require reparative care or targeted dermatological procedures.
What care to adopt for each type of acne?
Inflammatory acne
- Cleanse gently morning and night.
- Apply anti-inflammatory actives such as niacinamide or azelaic acid (reference: J Dermatol Treat, 2020).
- Use a targeted non-comedogenic cream.
Hormonal acne
- Consult a dermatologist if needed to balance hormones.
- Use products rich in zinc or gentle retinoids adapted to darker skin.
Post-acne spots
- Start using anti-spot actives as soon as the pimple dries: kojic acid, vitamin C, retinoids.
- Protect the skin with SPF 50 sunscreen: it's the #1 weapon against lingering pigmentation.
Our tips for a complete anti-acne & anti-spot routine
For an effective routine:
- Online diagnosis to identify your acne type
- 3-step routine: gentle cleansing + targeted care + sun protection
- Anti-blemish & Anti-spot care packs
- Read testimonials from those who said goodbye to their breakouts
Black skin often has a combination to oily texture, especially in the T-zone.
The goal is not to dry out (which worsens hyperpigmentation), but to regulate.
A good routine consists of:
- Gentle, sulfate-free cleanser with physiological pH.
- Balancing care: niacinamide, azelaic acid, regulating plant extracts.
- Mattifying SPF 50 sunscreen.
To optimize results, a targeted anti-spot treatment can be used at night, and random mixing of irritating products should be avoided at all costs.
In summary
Acne on darker skin requires special attention to avoid the "double trouble" effect: pimple + spot.
- ✔️ Identifying the acne type is crucial.
- ✔️ Protecting the skin with SPF and suitable anti-inflammatory care is key.
Subtle note: Laboratoire IN’OYA, a specialist in Black, brown, and mixed skin, offers dermocosmetic solutions tailored to these specific concerns.
Sources
- Alexis AF. Acne in patients with skin of color: pathogenesis and management. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2018.
- Draelos ZD. Treatment of acne and hyperpigmentation in patients with skin of color. J Dermatolog Treat. 2020.
- Skin of Color Update 2022, NYC.